01 December 2014

Fall and Spring in Mongolia


At the ger (yurt) museum, they got me all dressed up in
 a traditional outfit - it's really heavy, but warm. 



Mongolia has easily caught my attention, and now has earned three visits from me!  Of course it’s all work, all the time, but somehow we find ways to make it fun too.  My colleagues always make sure I learn something new about Mongolian culture, traditional life, food, geography, and clothing.  There is a lot of experiential learning that goes on… 
My colleagues made me do it.  
Three Mongolian brides...?









On my second visit to Mongolia in early spring, we conducted outreach to provinces far from the city. We flew to Khovd, over mountains and frozen lakes, to find a small city with a great bunch of students. There is an American Corner in the city library, to offer information about the US and its culture, with books and magazines, games and movies, English classes and special events. During one English class, I led a short discussion for about studying in the US and had the students do a scavenger hunt around the American books and materials in the room. The students surprised me with their command of English and curiosity about the United States!

The American Corner in Khovd. 


Old Russian books at the city library,
being entered into the online catalogue. 

Village boys climbing on a statue.


























During the drive to and from Khovd, we stopped for photos and a picnic near a frozen lake.  The scenery is awesome - I took way too many photos!


At a frozen lake in the countryside, near Khovd. 

The local shepherd lives here, with his jeep, motorbike,
horse, and satellite dish. 
Local market in Khovd, selling cheese curd.
The man is wearing a traditional "del" - robe and belt.

Scenery in the western province of Khovd - 
mountains and blue sky as far as the eye can see.  



Genghis (or "Chinggis") Khan is an important figure in Mongolian history, 
and he is seen everywhere -- in statues, street names, even the vodka!


A half hour drive from UB - this shows up on the horizon...
it is an enormous statue of Genghis Khan. 

Ethnic Kazak man with a hunting eagle,
outside the Genghis statue. 













Well hi, Genghis!!  




Mongolian HS students listening to my colleague. 

And what about work?  Well, I don’t do the hard stuff – I leave that up to my team.  They conduct lots of presentations to groups of students at local schools.  In the high schools, 100-250 students usually cram into a gym or auditorium, sharing chairs and filling every available space.  Unfortunately, they expect a boring lecture and there is no consideration of safety or expectations for conduct.  






So, the teacher in me comes out… We add an aisle down the middle, space for the presenter to walk around, and a clear pathway to the door, then we pull earphones out and insist on silencing phones or shutting down games. She's so mean, this crazy foreigner!  But it means the presenter gets their attention, and when she follows my suggestions, she holds their attention for almost an hour.  At the end, I get to help answer questions or play a US trivia quiz with the kids.  I ask questions in English, and the students answer me in English.  Very impressive for the middle of nowhere in Mongolia!  

Typical auditorium setup for one of our presentations. 

And the full crowd in the room,
behaving well, mostly.  





On our second outreach trip, we went to Dornod province, far to the east of Ulaanbaatar.  Rather than mountains, there are grasslands and small hills.  In this region, the Mongolians fought off invading Japanese forces, so there are many monuments and military museums.  After three or four museum visits, I have given up – they are all the same, miserable and dark, poorly maintained, and usually locked up until a visitor arrives.  

The city is that way! 

These two kids were playing with a pvc pipe, in a dirt lot,
near concrete blocks and open manholes. 

Apparently a bomb landed right here. So they left it.
And built a playground around it. Now they think it's funny. 


As with many parts of Mongolia, there are various stages of development and infrastructure.  It’s a bit bizarre to see huge factory buildings totally abandoned, car tracks through every patch of dirt where a sidewalk or schoolyard might be, and new townhomes being built near a coffee shop with free wifi.  

Another war memorial in Dornod province. 

City library -- it serves as a community center,
with some computers and English classes. 



On my most recent 3-week visit in the fall, we had several more events, but I also mixed in some social life and quiet time.  What a difference, making friends and building relationships through lunch meetings, home-cooked meals, volleyball, hanging out at coffee shops, and walking through the city. 

Pronounced "Khan-Ger" (the king's house),
or "Hun-ger" to the silly foreigner

The first big event was a teacher training project, in collaboration with the English language office (my former job).  My colleague and I wanted to find ways to combine English teacher training with educational advising.  So we started with an English teacher conference in the city where I presented about writing teacher recommendation letters.  Then we went out to the countryside and worked with several schools, talking to students about US study and to teachers about English teaching materials and how to advise students about US study. 



Outside our hotel... 
Typical scene on the side of the road,
a mound of rocks and ribbons.
Tradition is to add a rock and walk clockwise around it three times. 
Teacher Training: presenting about EducationUSA


The drives in the countryside were probably the highlights of this trip!  We headed out on the main “highway” east of the city, which quickly turns to dirt road, bumpy and dangerous the whole way.  Between the two towns, there is no real road.  Most of the time we were driving across plains, through grass, stopping at gers (yurts) to ask directions, trying to avoid wild animals the whole time.  The scenery was fantastic and the drive was wild.
Local shepherds on the side of the highway. 

Local herders -
the motorbike has replaced the horses in some places. 



That's the other jeep ahead of us,
clearing a dusty path through the grass. 


Our drivers asking directions. 

GPS:  Ger Positioning System -
these were out in the middle of the grasslands, 

under lots of blue sky. 



















On return to Ulaanbaatar, I spent the next two weeks working with my great team there, conducting meetings and presentations, and preparing for a big college fair.  It would be the first time ever for this office to host a college fair, so we did not have high expectations.  There were only six schools in attendance, but the fair was widely publicized.  In the end, we had an overwhelming 1,307 participants attend over the course of two days.  The college reps were amazed at the turnout and impressed with the students.  Next year we will have to find a larger venue, as we expect more college reps to attend, and probably a larger crowd. 

30 August 2014

March travels in Asia

March 2014

March was a very busy month, with lots of travel, mostly for work but with a little time to play too.  It included 3 weeks of travel to the Philippines, Korea, and Taiwan.  I had a workshop in Manila, then followed it with a few days of vacation in Boracay; two days at home to swap out clothing, then off to Korea for a large conference in Seoul, and a few extra days to explore afterwards; then finally a regional meeting in Taiwan for a few more days. Yes, I am mixing business with pleasure whenever possible.  And why not? 

And some days I arrive wondering, "where am I going today?"

I had never been to the Philippines before, so I used my time in Manila to do a little exploring.  What a cool city!  I loved the “Jeepneys” – public transportation in the form of these old jeep buses – brightly decorated with bright colors and images.  I wish I’d had more time to explore the markets and area near the bay. 





Following our workshop, I took a short flight on a Cebu Airways puddle-jumper out to the coastal resort area of Boracay, for a little beach getaway.  The landing strip is an experience – a little short, and I expected cows or chickens to wander out and greet us.  But the pilots seem to have it under control, and the flight attendants make it a fun trip with trivia games and cheerful conversation (probably to keep us from watching out the windows.)  On arrival, I took a short walk from the airport to the pier, bought my tickets, and was pointed to one of the many boats that would take me to the beach.  Again, bright colors and images I have only imagined from TV and movies…

The "wake-up" view!









The resort was a good choice – small and rustic, but very clean with great service, and not crowded.  Perfect for a three-day escape!  I lounged near the beach and read a book, drank mango smoothies, looked out at the blue-green water and white sand, and enjoyed great meals on the beach every evening.  Being there on my own was great for quiet time alone, or meeting new people and having interesting conversations. 

























The trip to Seoul was the most exciting adventure for me!  I got the chance to return “home”, to my birthplace, for the first time since I was a baby.  After several days of work there, I took a few extra days in Seoul, to take advantage of this opportunity to visit a place that is important to me.  And what a great city – it’s clean, functional, interesting, and fun.  It makes the “I could live there” list easily.  

Well thank you, Korea!


See, there was some work involved in this trip. 
Downtown Seoul, old city hall turned into a library

Park and temple across the street from my hotel -- they put on a show just for me!






















I had contacted a former student in Seoul and asked him to be my tour guide for the day.  We had a nice long walk all around town, delicious lunch, and I got a sense of the city.  


Rainy evening in pedestrian shopping area
Oh, more shopping!

On another day, I took a taxi to a gondola to reach the top of the hill and visited the Namsan Tower.  I did all of the touristy stuff there, and when I had maxxed out on tourism, I decided to walk back to my hotel… hiking down a wooded trail, along a very long pedestrian road (it reminded me of Central Park!), crossing through a university campus, and finally back to town, still half an hour walk away from the hotel.  Good thing it was a beautiful day and I had good walking shoes – sometimes I don’t pay attention to distances. 



Day out touring a large palace





View from Namsan Tower looking out on the city,
and to 
Namsan Tower, from the trail down the hill

















Halfway down the mountain... still a long way to go!












After Seoul, I had a few days of meetings in Taiwan, with lots of colleagues and business stuff.  Some of the business was work, and some was fun and cultural - like taking the Hello Kitty gondolas back into town after dinner.  Taiwan is very pleasant, uncrowded, quiet, and that means shops and restaurants are closed at 9pm.  (Again, sometimes I don’t pay attention, and I end up eating the candy and crackers from the minibar.)  I did eventually find some neighborhoods with a bit more lively atmosphere, shopping, and fun eats.  It’s a good place for a quiet getaway and clean air, just lacking the big city feel that I enjoy. 


Hanging out with my pals - Hello Kitty!

I think the facial expression says it all... 



Rush hour in Taipei?



And finally, after all that travelling, I returned home to Beijing for a few weeks… til the next adventures!